![]() Connect with neutral wires and secure again with wire nut previously removed. Locate jumper wire (included in packaging of primary switch). (These are typically a bundle of white wires in the back of the box)ģ. Locate neutral wires found inside switch box. Disconnect all wires on existing switch.Ģ. (Replacing standard switch with GE Primary Switch)ġ. Switch Connected To Fuse Box “Line Switch” Label wire connected to Common terminal, ‘LOAD’. Identify switch connected to lighting/fixture. Label wire connected to Common terminal, ‘LINE’.Ħ. Carefully remove both switches from each switch box location. IMPORTANT! Verify power is OFF to switch box before continuing.Ĥ. Shut off power to the circuit at circuit breaker or fuse box. These instructions are just to help clarify the information on the installation instructions, and do not replace the complete GE/JASCO instructions found here. The above illustration is courtesy GE/JASCO and is from the 12723 Add-on switch instruction sheet. Steps for replacing existing 3-way switches NOTE: Add-on switches will ‘become’ the type of device it supports a dimmer becomes a dimmer a switch becomes a switch. Toggle On/Off Switch is model 12727 and Dimmer is model 12729 Rocker On/Off Switch is model 12722 and Dimmer is model 12724 What is the difference in Model Numbers? (Click on the model number to open the product page in a new tab). The old, existing dumb switch will NOT serve as an Add-on switch. An Add-on is required when you want to automate a 3-way circuit. Despite it’s name, it will not let you “Add-On” another switch to your Z-Wave network since it does not have a Z-Wave chip. If you are only replacing one switch (non 3-way) then you would choose a Primary switch and be done.Īn Add-on (also known as a slave or auxiliary) switch gives an alternate location to control the Primary switch. A Primary (also known as a Master) switch contains the Z-Wave chip. GE switches can be broken up into 2 main categories: Primary Switches and Add-On Switches. ![]() Part of identifying wiring is understanding that Smart Switches require a line and a neutral wire. Know that there may be other ways before you play “Eeny, meeny, miny, mo” (yes, it happens) with the ‘extra’ wires. As we do not give electrical advice on this blog, we will demo the “standard” way that professionals will wire a 3-way circuit and include the steps (and illustrations) from the GE 12723 Add-on Switch instruction sheet below. There are at least 5 ways of wiring a 3-way switch, and each of those will require a slightly different setup. Now what? The first step in automating your basic 3-way setup is identifying the wiring. You’ve got a 3-way that you want to add to your Z-Wave network. The average DIY handyman/woman will need to know a single pole switch and a 3-way. Nothing seems to make sense to me, and I will leave the nomenclature for electricians and scholars. Why is it called a 3-way? I’ve been told that it’s because there are 3 ways for the electricity to flow, or that originally there were 3 points of contact. NOTE: most Z-Wave devices will support up to a 5-way switch. For Z-Wave purposes (and this blog entry) we are writing about how to install GE JASCO 3-Way Smart Switches. There are also 4-way (3 locations), 5-way (4 locations) and even 6-way (5 locations) or more. Most modern homes have rocker switches, and this is among the first upgrades done by DIYer’s.Ī 3-way switch is a setup where a load is controlled from 2 locations. ![]() Rocker: (also called a paddle switch) Type of switch with a wider surface than the toggle. They don’t match standard switches exactly in either look OR resting position. NOTE: Smart Toggles do not have an “up” and “down.” The switch itself is pressed up or down, but will return to a neutral position. Toggle: Type of switch that sort-of looks like an older ‘standard’ switch, and will fit toggle face plates. See What to Know Before Changing Your Wall Switch for more on Neutrals. When installing a Smart Switch, a neutral is required. Neutral: The return route of electricity. Line: The source of the electricity from the electric box/fuse box. Load: The light, fixture, or other item you want to turn on/off/dim. An Add-on switch CANNOT be used by itself as a Primary switch and is only used with a Primary. The device used in Single pole applications is the Primary - same device.Īdd-on switch: In a 3-way installation, the Add-on switch gives an alternate switch location. Primary switch: In a 3-way installation, the Primary switch contains the Z-Wave chip. Also called upstairs/downstairs switches in some regions. Single pole: Your ‘average’ switch- the light is controlled from one location.ģ-way: When the light is controlled from two locations.
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